In another time and city

This interview was first published in Sakal Times

Ambika Shaligram

Rana Safvi’s third book in the Delhi trilogy series, Shahjahanabad – The Living City of Old Delhi – would strike a chord with the most. After all, who hasn’t heard of Purani Dilli, as we know it now? The other two books in the trilogy include Where Stone Speaks: Historical Trails in Mehrauli, the First City of Delhi and The Forgotten Cities of Delhi. They have been published by HarperCollins.

Shahjahanabad or Purani Dilli was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Old timers, descendants of noblemen from Mughal court and members of the Hindu Kayastha community, who moved with Shah Jahan from Agra, still live there. They refer to Shahjahanabad as ‘shehr’. 

Shah Jahan decided to build this city because he found Agra and Lahore forts less spacious for his retinue of dignitaries. He finalised the present location between Firozabad and Din Panah for Qila-e-Mubarak (Red Fort) and laid the foundation. The city of Shahjahanabad was built around the Qila.

To write Shahjahanabad – The Living City of Old Delhi – Safvi visited the shehr regularly, keeping one day for exploring, and three days for documenting it. The book is a result of her visits, as well as contemporary accounts, which involved chatting with the residents. 

The base for the  descriptions came from Asar-us-Sanadid by Sir Sayyid Ahmad Khan, Waqiaat-e-Darul Hukumat Dehli by Bashiruddin Ahmad Dehlvi, The Archaeology and Monumental Remains of Delhi by Carr Stephen and Monuments of Delhi by Maulvi Zafar Hasan. 

DESOLATE GRANDEUR
Those living outside Delhi have one singular impression of Purani Dilli — of it being a culinary delight. And, so it was for Safvi before she began working on her books. “I have been visiting the Red Fort and eating at Karim’s for many decades now. But these visits were that of a tourist. I started studying the area for two translations I did: Dastaan-e-Ghadar (Penguin Random House) and Asar- us-Sanadid (for Tulika books). These acquainted me with the glory of the Mughal Era in the context of this city. So, yes, my perceptions changed from those of a tourist to someone invested in the area and its history and heritage,” says Safvi. 

The continuously inhabited city, Delhi was ruled by 10 dynasties. If one were to look at the commonalities of all these regimes, one aspect stands out. Says Safvi, “From the monuments I study, I do find a commonality. There’s a sense of desolate grandeur: that everyone, however, great a king or emperor, eventually is turned into dust.”

UPHEAVALS AND TRANSITION
Through the pages of Shahjahanabad...it becomes apparent that the Qila and city was deliberately destroyed by the British, after the 1857 uprising. The water canals, the baghs, the quarters, the open air markets have all but disappeared.  We can learn about Shah Jahan’s obsession with symmetry only through the accounts of the past. 

The city also witnessed another upheaval with the Partition of the country. What is its future going to be like?

The author replies, “The British did change the old city quite a bit to make it easier to control and for smooth troop movement after 1857. The Partition of 1947 meant that there was an exchange of population. Many shifted to Pakistan and refugees from Pakistan came to Delhi. The grand havelis were partitioned into smaller portions and now except for the original gateway which still stands, inside there’s a profusion of small flats and houses. Some havelis have been turned into warehouses or are just falling down. Builders are also buying them and turning them into flats.”

LOCALS TO LEVERAGE
Safvi in the book writes about the library initiative taken up by Delhi Youth Welfare Association. The Hazarat Shah Waliullah Library has as many as 25,000 books in Arabic, Persian, Hindi, Urdu and English. 

Safvi, who is closely associated with the project, says, “The residents of Shahjahanabad are now trying to revive their city. And only they can because they are invested in the city. There are more such projects going on, like ‘Margins to mainstream’ which gives free coaching to students appearing for school and entrance exams.” 

“Most of the wealthy families have shifted out of Shahjahanabad. Their houses serve as shops or godowns or are closed. But the syncretic culture of Shahjahanabad survives. Hindus and Muslims still live together and bond with each other, participate in each other’s festivals, sorrows and happiness,” she adds. 

USING SOCIAL MEDIA
Safvi, who blogged on Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb, food and culture, before penning books, has a good fan following on social media sites. When asked what role can online platforms play in course correction of history, monuments, she replies, “Earlier, we could only spread information through textbooks, newspapers or radio. Social media has made information dissemination and absorption easy. We can connect to literally thousands immediately. But the downside is that misinformation also spreads just as fast, if not faster. So one has to be very careful in following and believing information given on social media. We should rely only on authentic sources.